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2014/2015 Hueco Season Recap

Going into this Hueco season, I had no idea what to expect from myself. I had spent the summer climbing mostly long, endurance-based sport climbs, leaving me with very low expectations in terms of bouldering. However, I must have gained a bit of power along with long-route fitness and managed to completely blow any expectations I might have had out of the water.

By my count, I managed to spend 9 weekends in Hueco between late October and mid-March- more than ever. It was, by far, the most productive season I’ve ever had, and one of great personal growth. Before my first trip, I had climbed three V10 and harder problems in Hueco; by the end of my last trip, I had increased that to 13 total double-digit Hueco boulders, and greatly solidified my ability to climb them in a session or two. At the 22nd Hueco Rock Rodeo, I had my best finish to date – second in Advanced – and won the dyno comp for a second time!

I also made major progress on a few climbs that I have tried a bit in years prior, but never really got close on, culminating in a spectacular failure to send Full Monty that included swinging off of the finish jug four times, twice while swinging back in after holding the swing out (punt!). I also managed to stick the big move on Crown of Aragorn in isolation, and then was able to pull on from that position and send Better Eat Your Wheaties. In all, I’m incredibly happy with my progression from the year, even though I was ultimately unable to finish a few projects. Sometimes, when you dream big, you fail big- an inescapable fact of life. I can only be thankful for being injury free and having the opportunity to spend so much time in my favorite place despite an incredibly busy schedule outside of climbing.

Major thanks to Mad Rock Climbing, who helped pay for my last two trips while desperately trying to finish off Full Monty! The RedLines are among the best shoes I’ve ever worn and were instrumental this season, and the Shark 2.0 is clutch when it comes to foot trickery, like the tough heel-toe cam on Barefoot on Sacred Ground. I’d also like to give a shoutout to Stone Crush Gear for providing a great kneepad that was crucial to sending Le Chninkel. I had the pleasure of working with Andy Wickstrom and many other incredibly talented photographers, including Michael Lim, Gustavo Moser, Jay Bone, and Jake Croft- huge thanks for the beautiful images you guys produced.

Last, but certainly not least, I have to mention all of my truly fantastic friends who have made this a memorable season- both new and old, I can’t thank you all enough for the support, fun, memories, and comradery! You’re all wonderful people who have so much to offer the world, and I can’t wait to run into you all again in the future. Until next time!

Memorable sends:
Barefoot on Sacred Ground V12
Le Chninkel V11
Liane V11
Here Comes the Flop V11 (2nd go/first try from the start)
El Techo de los Tres B’s V11
Power of Silence V10
Natural Disaster V10
Full Service V10
Crimping Christ on the Cross V10
Wonder Dyno V10
The Egg V9
Shroom V9 (flash)
Problematics V9 (flash)
Sex After Death V8
Sledgehammer V8
Something Different V8
Crash Test Dummy Left V7
Uncut Yogi Low V7
Dry Dock V7
Honeycomb Hideout V5
To Die For V5 R
William’s Lectric Shave V4
Oubliette V4 R
The 90’s Are Now V3 X FA
The Maiden V0 R

And a selection of photos in rough chronological order(all uncredited images © Alex McIntyre):

Jason Davis checking out the upper moves of what would become The 90's Are Now V3 X.
Jason Davis checking out the upper moves of what would become The 90’s Are Now V3 X.
Sending Crimping Christ on the Cross (V10). Photo © Gustavo Moser 2014
Sending Crimping Christ on the Cross (V10). Photo © Gustavo Moser 2014
Sending El Techo de los Tres B's (V11). Photo © Emiliano Jordan 2014.
Sending El Techo de los Tres B’s (V11). Photo © Emiliano Jordan 2014.
Waking up after sleeping at the gate to walk onto North Mountain. Photo © David Adams 2014.
Waking up after sleeping at the gate to walk onto North Mountain. Photo © David Adams 2014.
Sending Full Service (V10). Photo © Jason Carlson 2014
Sending Full Service (V10). Photo © Jason Carlson 2014
Sunrise on the Rock Ranch at the 22nd Hueco Rock Rodeo.
Sunrise on the Rock Ranch at the 22nd Hueco Rock Rodeo.
Sticking the dyno redpoint crux on Natural Disasters V10 in the Rock Rodeo. Photo © Jake Croft 2015.
Sticking the dyno redpoint crux on Natural Disasters V10 in the Rock Rodeo. Photo © Jake Croft 2015.
Sticking the final dyno for the win at the Rock Rodeo dyno comp. Photo © Michael Lim (http://www.mlimphoto.com , @murkytimes on Instagram)
Sticking the final dyno for the win at the Rock Rodeo dyno comp. Photo © Michael Lim (http://www.mlimphoto.com , @murkytimes on Instagram)
Screaming and vibrating while sending Liane (V11). Photo © Jay Bone 2015
Screaming and vibrating while sending Liane (V11). Photo © Jay Bone 2015
West Mountain under the stars while camping at the gate.
West Mountain under the stars while camping at the gate.
The bat facts crew rolling onto North Mountain on an early morning mission for Jake to send Pumped Full of Semen (V9).
The bat facts crew rolling onto North Mountain on an early morning mission for Jake to send Pumped Full of Semen (V9).
Working Crown of Aragorn (V13). Photo © Andy Wickstrom 2015
Working Crown of Aragorn (V13). Photo © Andy Wickstrom 2015
Atmospheric skies over Hueco Tanks.
Atmospheric skies over Hueco Tanks.
Sending Lip Service and redeeming myself for the ugliest topout Full Service has ever seen. Photo © Andy Wickstrom 2015
Sending Lip Service and redeeming myself for the ugliest topout Full Service has ever seen. Photo © Andy Wickstrom 2015
Sending Lip Service. Photo © Andy Wickstrom 2015.
Sending Lip Service. Photo © Andy Wickstrom 2015.
Sending Le Chninkel (V11). Photo © Andy Wickstrom 2015.
Sending Le Chninkel (V11). Photo © Andy Wickstrom 2015.
Working hard, but not sending, on Sunshine (V11). Photo © Andy Wickstrom 2015
Working hard, but not sending, on Sunshine (V11). Photo © Andy Wickstrom 2015
Until next time...
Until next time…